Friday June 27th Nice dry tent this morning – not a drop of condensation anywhere! I was glad to shake the dust of Shap from my feet. I did not know that my kilted friend was sleeping in a slightly gimmicky ‘hotel’, just across the road. Away at 7.45 – Curlew and lapwing country – reminded me of my first Long Distance Walk with Dick Smith. Crossed the M6 and passed a huge limestone quarry – then pleasant, easy walking across a great plateau full of prehistoric remains. Oddendale, Robin Hood’s grave, Great Asby Scar, Sunbiggin Tarn – where masses of birds breed – a continuous sound rising and falling as they get more or less excited. I had crossed an area of limestone pavement – interesting at first but after ½mile or so of stepping carefully from one slab to the next, they became just a nuisance. The Pennines are well in view now. I have crossed the Lakes and the Westmorland Plateau and 74 miles are behind me. Saw ringed plover here. And at the tarn saw a weasel playing – 4yds away. A second suddenly appeared, sticking straight up out of heather clump. Saw me – vanished – re-appeared near the first one, grabbed it by the chin and they raced away heads high and locked together, over the heather at full speed. Today I used my meta fuel stove for tea at breakfast. Carefully used – quite satisfactory. I did not intend to finish the 20¼miles but revived at Smardale Fell and carried on to Greenriggs Farm, not quite a mile from Kirkby Stephen, and here a young farmer responded to my request to camp with the utmost courtesy, refusing money. I climbed to the top of a field and made an excellent camp. During the night I heard rain falling heavily but the morning broke fine and clear.